Hardanger Tourist Route – the ultimate driving experience.

I think I have discovered the ultimate motorhome driving experience!  The amazing Hardanger Fjord tourist road  includes narrow mountain roads perched hundreds of feet above fjords, very long tunnels with roundabouts in, tunnels that spiral upwards through whole mountains, an incredible suspension bridge linking two tunnels and a road that runs over the largest plateau in Europe at 3,500 ft. This tourist route in Norway is not for the novice driver but it is sensational, as I will try and describe.

After paying nearly £30 per night on the campsite when we visited Bergen in our motorhome we wanted to find some free camping stops as we made our way to the next stage of our motorhome tour of Norway – Hardangerfjord.


It’s worth visiting Norway just to experience the incredible Vallavik  Tunnel and the Hardanger Plateau. Norway is a country full of fantastic driving experiences.


The weather so far in Norway has been superb. We haven’t seen rain for a month and today the temperature has been a hot 27c. As well as the excellent weather, the other phenomenon worth a mention is the length of the daylight hours. At 10.30pm I can still see blue sky and at midnight it is still light enough to read outside. In fact it does not get properly dark, which is great for our solar power.

Our search for a free night motorhome stay did not take long as we soon found a rest/picnic area just off road 48 next to Holmefjord. With a brand new toilet block with motorhome waste point it was a near perfect overnight stop.

Steinsdalsfossen, Norway. You can walk behind this waterfall.

The next day we stopped at Steinsdalsfossen, a fantastic waterfall with the added attraction of being able to walk behind the waterfall.

Hardanger Tourist Route and the Vallavik Tunnel

Beautiful Hardanger Fjord. (With power cables)!

We joined the Hardanger Tourist Route at Øystese and followed the spectacular E7 road perched on the side of a mountain road hundreds of feet above the fjord below. This road is not for the novice driver or anyone scared of heights because this road takes in the best of what Norway offers in terms of scenery. It is single track road for much of its length, with passing places, and only a thin concrete barrier separating you from certain death! It’s impossible to see around corners and you have no idea if another vehicle is going to meet you. The good thing about driving a motorhome which is 2.8 metres high is that you can be seen, and although we met many cars and even several coaches coming the other way most gave way to us.

Take a look, below, at the You Tube video I took of the amazing Villavik Tunnel.

One of the roundabouts inside the Vallavik Tunnel in Norway.

Turning right at the village of Granvin onto road 13 took us through the 4.7 mile Vallavik Tunnel. This tunnel is one of the most famous in Norway because it  has two roundabouts in it with junctions and also the new Hardanger Bridge links another long tunnel, which makes for a truly spectacular drive.

I would have loved a ride on this sea plane parked up at Eidfjord.

After a lunch stop at Eidfjord, where I was tempted by a sea plane flight, and where a Viking Sea cruise ship was berthed disgorging it’s cruise passengers into the tiny village, we continued our journey on the E7 road. A series of spectacular winding tunnels carved their way inside the mountain passing Vøringfossen, which was unfortunately shrouded in low cloud as by this time the hot weather had given way to rain and cloud.

It was a dark and gloomy start to the day when we drove over the Hardanger Plateau.

The incredible Hardanger Plateau.

Try to imagine one of the wildest and remotest places on Earth and that is how I would describe the Hardanger Plateau. It has an area of of 2,500 square miles and an average elevation of 3,500 ft. It is the largest mountain plateau in Europe. The land is strewn with boulders, lakes and small pools of water which makes it impossible to walk far unless a marked path is used. A network of paths connect mountain lodges some of which have honesty boxes whilst others are staffed. Despite the temperature of only 8c on the top of the Hardanger Plateau we found somewhere that looked suitable to park for the night and together with another motorhome that arrived we spent a comfortable but chilly night.

Where next?

The terrain will get less dramatic from now on as we head east. We will be visiting Anne’s cousin who lives north of Oslo before reaching Oslo itself where we will spend a few days exploring before catching the ferry to Denmark.

Our motorhome parked up for the night at 1100 metres on the Hardanger Plateau
Lots of snow near to where we parked for the night on the Hardanger Plateau.
We spent a night at Sæbo Camping on the E7 Tourist Route.
Driving on the Hardanger Plateau at 3,500 ft. Not much of a view at this point due to low cloud!

 

Visiting Bergen with a motorhome

The E39 is a major road that runs north to south in the west of Norway. For such a major road it can be very narrow and winding, but it runs through fantastic scenery and it was on this road that we set off driving south to visit Bergen with a motorhome.

If you don’t like driving through long tunnels then don’t visit Norway because Norway has over 1,000 tunnels, including one over 15 miles long. On our drive to Bergen we drove though many tunnels including one very long one where there was road works and we had to wait 20 minutes before we were escorted through in a convoy. There was also a spectacular tunnel-bridge-tunnel combination.

Visiting Bergen in a motorhome.

It was on the E39 that we came across a random  police checkpoint where they were testing everyone with a breathalyser for drink driving. The policeman showed me the reading of 0.00 and I joked with the policeman that I couldn’t afford alcohol in Norway! This was the 2nd time that I had been breathalysed on this motorhome trip as I was also randomly checked in Sweden. The Scandinavians are very keen on random breath checks and they have a zero tolerance approach.

Bergen – Norway’s 2nd city

We were last in the city of Bergen in 1999 but I couldn’t remember much about it, so we left our campsite at Lone Camping for the number 90 bus, which stops outside the campsite. We had already bought bus tickets at the nearby supermarket costing 37 NOK each way per person. The bus stops at Nesttun where you change to Bergen’s light rail system to the city centre.

The view from the top of the Bergen Floibanen.

Bergen has a population of 275,000 people and it puts British cities to shame with its transport system. Light rail, efficient busses and trams get people around the city quickly. Having visited many European cities on our motorhome journey they all have very good public transport with the majority having trams or Metro systems, yet my home city of Leeds with a population of nearly 1 million people can’t get its act together to build a modern public transport system.

Having arrived in Bergen centre we headed for the harbour area where it was teeming with cruise tourists from 3 cruise ships that were docked that day including the huge  P & O Azura. We asked one English lady if she was enjoying the cruise and she said there were too many people on the ship, but she loved Norway. If you want to see Norway for a few days then a cruise is probably the cheapest way to do that but touring Norway in a motorhome is the best way!

What to do in Bergen

As we only intended to spend one full day in Bergen, and with a limited budget, we started the day with a walk around the harbour area, and this is where you will find the famous Bryggen area. Protected by UNESCO this is where the very first buildings in Bergen were situated , although the wooden houses have been devastated by fires many times, including the great fire of 1702 when the whole city was reduced to ashes.

Tallship in Bergen harbour

It’s interesting strolling through the narrow alleyways of the Bryggen area, although there are lots of shops selling traditional Norwegian crafts, which personally I don’t have any interest in but Anne of course loves!

The next place we headed for, along with about 5,000 cruise passengers, was the Fløibanen funicular railway. Costing 90 NOK per person, the railway takes you to a viewpoint 302 metres above the city where you get splendid views of the city and harbour area below.

At the top of the Bergen funicular railway

After descending the Fløibanen we needed lunch and found a very nice cafe serving freshly made sandwiches and coffee. At a cost of 250 NOK (£23.15) we savoured every mouthful. A small bottle of water later cost us £2.50 and a coke and ginger ale another £10. We are loving Norway but the high prices are the only negative.

An Edvard Munch painting at the Kode gallery in Bergen.

We wanted to visit the Kode Art Museum. There are four separate buildings that make up the whole museum. Entry costs 120 NOK per person (£11) and we were able to see famous paintings by Edvard Munch and Nikolai Astrup.

Bergen fish market

Finally, after a visit to the famous Bergen fish market where whale was on the menu, and I again winced at the high prices, we headed home. By this time, the cruise passengers had gone back onboard ship and it was much quieter. Today, we only touched the surface of what Bergen has to offer the tourist. I did feel a little sorry though for the cruise ship passengers. Most seemed to walk around the harbour area and go up the funicular railway before buying some souvenirs in one of the many shops and then heading back to their cruise ship. Today we also acted like cruise ship tourists, but we have now been touring Norway in our motorhome for one month, with another three weeks left. During this time we have really been able to explore this magnificent country, meet the Norwegian people and see the places that no cruise ship can take you. For that we feel very lucky!

Lone Camping, Bergen

The city of Bergen doesn’t welcome motorhomes in the city centre and they operate a toll system for any vehicles entering. Cars cost 29 NOK and 67 NOK over 3.5 tonnes. We could only find 4 places to park our motorhome in Bergen and they were all very busy. We decided to stay at Lone Camping, which is next to a large pretty lake and takes about 45 minutes to travel to Bergen city centre.

Lone Camping is an average quality campsite. There was a lack of fresh water taps and there is, as there always is in Norway, a charge of 10 NOK to use the showers. We used our own.

We enjoyed Bergen, although it’s not my favourite part of Norway. Ålesund has been my favourite Norwegian town so far. Next we head further south and to Hardanger fjord.

The famous funicular railway in Bergen.

Sognefjord – the longest and deepest fjord in Norway.

How would you recover a motorhome from the bottom of a Norwegian fjord 1,300 metres deep? This was the question that briefly ran through my mind whilst we were on the Kaupanger to Gudvangen ferry that runs daily on Sognefjord, Norway’s longest and deepest fjord. Luckily, there was no ferry disaster that day so we never got to find out the answer to that question, but I can confirm that Nærøyfjorden is a UNESCO area for very good reason.


Sognefjord facts and information

  • Sogneford is 127 miles long
  • Maximum depth is 4,291 feet
  • It’s 3,300 feet deep for over 70 miles of its length.
  • During the last ice age the ice was 3,000 metres deep in Sognefjord.

Kaupanger to Gudvangen car ferry

Running from the middle of May to the middle of August the Kaupanger to Gudvangen ferry is special because it is basically a 3 hour fjord cruise that includes Naeroyfjord, a branch of Sognefjord, which has been awarded UNESCO status. The fjord is 17km long and at the narrowest point is only 250 metres wide. The passage through Naeroyfjord is said to be one of the most dramatic fjord trips in Europe and just like Geiranger fjord is a ‘must see’. It passes giant waterfalls, snow-capped mountains and ancient farms that cling to the mountainside.

Kaupanger to Gudvangen ferry.

The Kaupanger to Gudvangen ferry is not cheap to take a 7 metre long motorhome on, but we thought the £146 cost was well worth it as we saved a significant amount in diesel and this was no ordinary Norwegian ferry.

Undredal – A hidden gem

After arriving on the ferry at Gudvangen there is a Shell station with a motorhome service point, that we didn’t use, but there is also a small Joker supermarket (its real name!) which we did use.

Turning left onto the E16 we immediately entered the Gudvangen tunnel, which is Norway’s 2nd longest tunnel at 11.4 km. It’s dead straight and all uphill. If you follow the E16 it takes you to Laerdal but we turned left just after the tunnel onto the road to a lovely place called Undredal. This is located on the fjord and is a small traditional Norwegian village with a population of 100 people and 500 goats! The road to the village was only built in 1988 and until then the only access was by sea or a long trek over a mountain.

Undredal is situated on an arm of Sognefjorden. A beautiful place well worth a visit.

There is a small campsite at Undredal, not featured on any apps. which turned out to be excellent (coordinates N60º 57’4″, E7º 6′ 18″). The location of Undredal is really good, with mountains all around and even a small cafe. Undredal is famous for a very special brown goats cheese that is sweet tasting called Gjetost. It was made by farmers as a method of using the goats milk  because they couldn’t transport it due to lack of roads, and has a sweet caramel taste.

The FV13 to Vikøyri

Just when you think you will be driving on an ordinary road, another high mountain road surprises you with its magnificence. This was the case with the FV13. This stretch of road took us to 1,281 metres over Vikafjell up hairpin bends, past mega frozen lakes and so close to a huge raging waterfall that we could nearly lean out of the window to touch it. We were heading for a campsite on the side of Sognefjord but came across a parking area with such an awesome view that we decided to stay the night. ( Coordinates N61°0’47”, E6°32’34”)

Room with a view. Our free overnight stop at 920 metres high on the FV13

After a night on the campsite, Tveit Camping, where we saw porpoises in the fjord, we caught the ferry from Vangsnes to Dragsvik via Hella and stopped at the historic town of Balestrand where we visited Norway’s National Travel and Tourism Museum, and walked into the historic Kviknes Hotel, owned by the same family since 1877.

Vangsnes to Dragsvik ferry via Hella
Lunch stop at 750 metres on the FV13.

Another free night was spent beside Sognefjord at the Kvamsøy Rasteeplass, Balestrand, where there is room for at least 10 motorhomes. (Coordinates N61°7’51”, E6°28’52”).

After a peaceful night next to the fjord we set off to continue on the FV13, to complete another of Norway’s National Tourist Routes. Our majestic journey on the FV13 was completed with our 4th overnight stay at Haukedalen. (Coordinates N61°24’11”, E6°13’31”) before we reached the town of Førde on the E39. We had spent 4 nights in total on the FV13 and it had turned into a mini epic adventure.

Setting our table for one of our lunch spots.
View of the FV13 from a high viewpoint that we stopped at.
One of the smallest Stave churches in Norway is at Undredal.
Undredal, Norway

Conquering the highest mountain road and an interview with Norwegian radio

Yesterday was an eventful day. We drove on the highest mountain road in Norway, managed to have a small altercation with another vehicle breaking our wing mirror, and I was interviewed for Norwegian radio, live!

The RV55 from Lom starts with lush valley meadows and the road slowly ascends through the valley before reaching the summit at 1,434 metres, making the road northern Europe’s highest mountain pass. According to Google maps, the route we covered is 138 km long and should take 2 hours and 52 minutes. It took us 24 hours, including an overnight stop, in a parking area next to a fast flowing deep river, many other viewpoint stops and a very slow descent on one of Norway’s steepest roads.

History of the RV55 road

The road was used for trading and was an important transport link to the coast of Norway. Using this mountain road was not without its perils in days gone by as bandits robbed travellers and merchants. The weather is so severe on the road in winter and the snow so deep that it is impossible to keep the road open. Snow poles mark the edge of the road at close intervals and there was still very deep snow when we were there at the end of May.

Parked at one of the many viewpoints on the RV55 mountain road in Norway.

As we reached the summit of the road the Norwegian ski team were training in the still significant amount of snow left, although at its peak the snow is 10 metres deep. We parked our motorhome at one of the many viewpoints and stood awestruck at the magnificent snow capped mountains and wilderness on view before us, stretching as far as the eye can see. We stopped at one point to see a memorial for six men who lost their lives in the 19th century when they went looking for food and perished in the extreme cold.

An incident with a wing mirror

We stopped to take photographs and I got my drone out to take some aerial video. It was shortly after this that we damaged a wing mirror when a fast approaching van failed to slow down when we met and cracked the plastic casing of the passenger wing mirror. Luckily the glass was unaffected but I wished that I had listened to Anne’s advice and bought some mirror guards to help prevent damage like this.

An interview with Norwegian radio

After a very steep descent down a road with too many hairpin bends to count and many curses with “surely this road must end soon” we eventually  reached Skjolden, a pretty town at the end of Lustrafjorden, where we stopped for lunch. The final part of this road is a dramatic drive along the fjord, where we had to stop for 20 minutes when the tunnel was closed due to roadworks. When the tunnel re-opened there were only about 20 cars in the queue, which shows how quiet the road was. The roads we have driven along in Norway just keep getting more dramatic and the RV55 was much longer and steeper than Trollstiggen (blog post here) or Dalsnibba (blog post here) that we had driven along recently.

We eventually reached the town of Sogndalsfjora and found the Kjørnes campsite, which turned out to be a very good choice. With immaculate showers and great views we decided to spend two nights here.

Eating waffles, in our motorhome, with the owner of Kjørnes Camping whilst being interviewed for Norwegian radio.

We were relaxing in the evening sunshine,  without beer because it’s too expensive to buy, when a Norwegian radio car pulled up and a friendly young lady asked us if she could interview us for Norwegian local radio. Never to shy away from such things, and telling her that I had several times been interviewed by the BBC about travel and tourism, she returned the next morning for the interview. The lovely campsite owners were also interviewed and we were all crammed into our motorhome whilst being live on the radio. An interesting experience!

Tomorrow we go on a 3 hour ferry journey from Kaupanger to Gudvangen along the Naeroyfjord (UNESCO)

We spent 2 nights at the excellent Kjørnes Camping.
Map of our journey along the RV55 from Lom to Sogndals.

I put together a short video using a drone and motorhome dashcam.

Dalsnibba – The best view in Norway?

Fantastic, dramatic, spectacular, authentic or unique? I don’t think that any of these words adequately describe Fjord Norway. Reading through a leaflet this morning about the Geiranger area of Norway a phrase in it said “Norway is not a place. It’s a feeling”. I totally agree. You need to be in Norway to fully appreciate the magnificence of this country. Our journey to Dalsnibba would exceed all expectations.

We had a free camping night last night (Sunday 27th May) at 922 metres altitude, on the E15, next to a partially frozen lake and surrounded by snow clad mountains. (Coordinates N62 0’ 48”, E7 24’7”). It was another incredibly warm 24C and we have not seen rain for 2 weeks now.

Our last venture up a mountain road was the famous Trollstigen road (blog post here) and down the very steep Eagle Road into Geiranger fjord. This resulted in some very hot brakes that we weren’t too keen on repeating. It was with this in mind that we discussed whether we should take our motorhome up the very steep road to the Dalsnibba viewpoint, 1500 metres above sea level. I said that we are so close we should do it, so off we went. Why would we want to miss the highest viewpoint of fjords in Europe, even though we might have brake failure and plummet hundreds of feet off a mountain road!

Stopping in the middle of the road to talk to fellow Brits!

The road to the Dalsnibba viewpoint started off very gently along FV63. The road was quiet and we were admiring the scenery around us when we saw a motorhome approaching us from the opposite direction. As we got closer, we noticed the couple were waving frantically at us and they had a British number plate. Motorhomers do tend to wave at each other but this was more enthusiastic waving than we normally see.  We noticed in the rear mirrors that they had stopped. We also screeched to a halt in the middle of the road and got out to say hi. It turned out that Richard and Annie were also touring Denmark, Sweden and Norway and were following our travels by reading our blog and they had recognised us! What are the chances?  Naturally, they were full of enthusiasm for Norway and we wished we could have talked for longer, but we were blocking the road and had to crack on. What a lovely couple Richard and Annie were and I hope that we get chance to meet up again for a longer chat sometime soon.

The Dalsnibba Viewpoint

Dalsnibba viewpoint with Geiranger fjord 1500 metres below.

The Dalsnibba road turns off FV63 Geiranger road and you have to pay a toll of 140 NOK (about £13). It’s expensive but considering the effort that has been put into building this mountain road, that ascends 500 metres in a short length of time, I think it’s worth it. We hadn’t chosen the best day for it though because the sky was grey and I was worried that I might not get my £13’s worth of photo opportunities!

In typical Norway fashion there is a visitor centre, shop and toilets as well as one of those viewpoints where the walkway is see through. I could see a drop of hundreds of metres below my feet and many people were refusing to walk on it! I noticed very big steel girders embedded in the rock as I walked out on it and I felt a little more reassured. Geiranger fjord was in the distance below us and the view was awesome. The photos below I took turned out better than I had hoped despite the poor light.

An amazing view from the Dalsnibba viewpoint

Not wanting to have the same brake problems we had descending Dalsnibba as we had descending the Eagle Road, I erred on the side of caution on this much steeper road and went most of the way down in 1st gear!

Lom, a stave church and another free night

Lom is at the intersection of the E15 and RV55 and is the location of one of Norway’s largest Stave churches. A Norwegian Stave church is made completely from wood and even uses wooden pegs instead of nails. Parts of Lom Stave church date from the 1150’s and it was a masterpiece of joinery and quite ornate inside. The Esso station in the town also has a free motorhome service point which was a welcome sight and we were soon on our way again heading west again on the E55 towards Sogndalsfjora

The RV55, another of Norway’s official tourist routes, took us past raging rapids, deep gorges and lakes. The snow poles running on either side of the road were a reminder that in winter these roads would be impassable. At one of  the several places of interest we stopped at we got talking to a French couple in a 4×4 super cool camper van and we exchanged information on where we had both been, which is always a good thing to do.

Monday night was spent in another free camping area for which we are now loving Norway for. It’s not on any apps. But we came across a perfect parking area on the RV55, right beside a fast-flowing river and surrounded by mountains, one of which is Norway’s highest mountain, Galdopiggen, at 2469 metres high. The only downside was that we had no phone signal at all, although some would say that’s a good thing.

Driving a motorhome through Norway is proving to be an amazing experience.

The Stave church at Lom, Norway. Made entirely of wood.

 


 

The amazing Briksdal Glacier campsite in Norway.

Plunging 1200 metres into the awe-inspiring Briksdalen Valley, the Briksdal Glacier is an arm of the huge Jostedalsbreen Glacier and is another of Norway’s most visited attractions. Every day, during the summer season, hundreds of cruise ship passengers call at nearby Olden and board coaches to take them the short distance to Briksdal Glacier.

Melkevoll Bretun Camping

Melkevoll Bretun camping is a short walk to the visitor centre at the Briksdal Glacier, which is where the 45 minute walk to the glacier starts, and we decided to spend a few days there on our motorhome tour of Norway.

Melkovoll Bretun is in an awe inspiring location. We can see the gigantic waterfall Volefossen from our motorhome, thundering 355 metres down the mountain, and as soon as we arrived it was clear that we had arrived at a special place. The beauty of the surrounding landscape is a million miles away from the frantic day to day life and commuting that we still had this time last year . There is no pollution here, just fresh crisp mountain air that fills your lungs. All I can hear as I type this blog is the sound of water from the nearby river that a few minutes ago was at the top of the nearby mountain.  Our motorhome is parked up and all around us we can see snow capped mountains; this campsite must surely be in one of the best locations you could wish for.

I made a short video about Molkevoll Bretun camping, below.

The Briksdal Glacier

It was a warm and sunny day with clear blue sky when we arrived at Melkevoll Bretun so after plugging in our motorhome electricity cable we set off walking in the direction of the glacier.


The Briksdal Glacier and the camping at Melkevoll Bretun make an excellent combination as part of a motorhome tour of Norway.


Most of the cruise tourists were taking the troll carts (motorised buggies) to the glacier but we decided to save ourselves £22 each by walking to the glacier, which is about a mile and takes about 45 minutes. At the Briksdal Glacier visitor centre it said the walk was a gentle incline but I would describe the walk as being a bit of a tiring slog up a steep hill!

The walk up to the Briksdal Glacier takes you past amazing scenery such as this huge waterfall,

The walk up though proved to be the best option because you get to stop to look at spectacular waterfalls and mountain scenery. When you reach the glacier there is a glacial lake and we drank the water from the lake because it looked so crystal clear and fresh. So far no ill effects!

Walk up to the Briksdal Glacier takes you over this bridge.
The Briksdal Glacier in Norway has shrunk considerably over the last few years due to global warming.

On the walk down the very warm weather had made me thirsty and I said to Anne that I fancied a beer. So far on our motorhome tour of Norway we have had only one beer. Knowing that beer is very expensive in Norway, and even more so at popular tourist spots, I was still determined to have a beer to quench my thirst. So, at the Briksdal Glacier visitor centre I bought 2 x  half litre cans of beer at a staggering cost of 180 Norwegian Krone, the equivalent of £8.30 a can!

The area of Briksdal Glacier is fantastic. It’s an easy drive from the town of Olden to get to Briksdal and I would recommend a visit when doing a motorhome tour of Norway.

Coincidences

What are the chances that we would meet the friendly German couple, Monika and Michael again. Originally we met them in February at the top of El Torcal National Park in Spain, 3500 km away. (Blog post here ) Well, that’s exactly what happened! We were  down to our last two bottles of wine but thought the occasion warranted a celebratory bottle to share the evening with them .We spent a very happy few hours talking about motorhome touring and travel plans. We couldn’t quite believe the cooincidence of us meeting up again. When we finished talking at 00.30hrs  it was still light and the nearby mountains and waterfalls looked beautiful.

Meeting up with Monika and Michael from Germany again at Melkevoll Bretun.

Oldevatn Camping, Norway

When we find a good campsite I like to tell the campsite owner that we have enjoyed our stay. Oldevatn Camping near Olden in Norway was one of those campsites. When I was chatting to the Norwegian owner he told me that they had bought the campsite from his wife’s mother. He was very keen to tell me about how his wife does the cleaning and looks after the flowers and he is respnsible for the bookings and makes sure everything runs as it should, and indeed everything runs perfectly.

Oldevatn campsite, Norway

Set in a valley surrounded by high mountains and sitting between two huge lakes it’s the perfect setting for a campsite. There are seasonal pitches and a small area for motorhomes, all with electric hook ups. Showers and toilets are of a high standard and very clean. Showers are not included in the price and cost an extra 10 Norwegian Krone.  This is an ACSI site and members of ACSI get discounted rates.


I would highly recommend this campsite for its superb location, excellent facilities and friendly owners.


Aerial view of our motorhome at Oldevatn camping in Norway.

Fresh bread can be ordered the day before, the campsite has a small selection of groceries available and best of all the campsite has canoes, kayaks and rowing boats that are available free of charge. Pitches are not marked. There are also cabins available to rent at a cost I was told of 700 Krone a night (£65), with shower and toilet. The cost increases in the high season. We stayed two night at Oldevatn campsite. It was May and it was fairly quiet. I would highly recommend one or two nights here whilst touring Norway in a motorhome.

View through our motorhome door at Oldevatn Camping. That’s a classic Hymer in the distance.
View of the lake at Oldevatn camping in Norway.

Geiranger ferry and the awesome fjord.

Geiranger fjord is one of Norway’s most visited attractions so after two nights at  the very good  campsite Geirangerfjorden Feriesenter, (coordinates N62 6 54″, E7 11 6″) we drove a mile down the road to Geiranger village itself to catch the Geiranger ferry to Hellesylt, a journey of one hour.

Before boarding the ferry we paid a visit to the Joker supermarket to buy more milk and a few other groceries. After a bill of £31.70 for 9 items it was obvious why the supermarket was called Joker! Just for the record a litre of milk cost £1.75, a carton of orange juice cost £2.03, a box of muesli cost £2.76 and five Norwegian fish cakes cost £5.07.

Taking our motorhome on the Geiranger ferry with a cruise ship approaching.

There are some things in life that you just have to do and catching the ferry with our motorhome along the famous Geiranger fjord is one of those things! Another must do is to take your motorhome on the famous Trollstiggen mountain road. The cost to take our motorhome on the Geiranger ferry was just over £105 (6-10 metre category), expensive but well worth it.  It’s difficult to put into words just how awesome the Geiranger fjord is and photographs don’t do it justice, but I’ll post some here anyway. Sheer rock faces and an endless number of waterfalls, including the famous Seven Sisters and Storseterfossen, seem so close that you could reach out and touch them. The ferry, to me, was an excellent alternative to taking a cruise costing many times more than the ferry cost.

Seven Sisters Waterfall, Geiranger taken from the Geiranger ferry.

Hellesylt and the tsunami threat

The Geiranger ferry takes you to the small town of Hellesylt and the first thing that greeted us was the huge Hellesylt waterfall full of crystal clear  water. Hellesylt itself has been featured on the TV series ‘Coast‘ and is located on one of Norway’s most beautiful fjords, Storfjorden. The 900  metre high Aknesfjallet looks like any other mountain but along the mountain side runs a 700 metre crack, and it’s growing by 15cm every year. This crack makes the mountain so unstable that the whole mountain will eventually slide into the 300 metre deep fjord below triggering an 80 metre high tsunami. Several towns will be destroyed, which is why the mountain is one of Norway’s most monitored area’s. Residents and tourists will be sent an SMS within 72 hours of the mountains collapse. Best not hang around too long then!

I made a short video, below, of our Geiranger ferry journey.

Beautiful Geiranger fjord in Norway
Seven Sisters Waterfall, Geiranger fjord, Norway