If you love the freedom of the open road and have a serious appreciation for cheese, there is one destination that belongs at the top of your travel wishlist: the Alkmaar cheese market in the Netherlands.
Every Friday morning from spring through autumn, the central square of this gorgeous canal-ringed town transforms into a vibrant, bustling, sensory-overload spectacle. We’re talking thousands of giant, golden wheels of Gouda, traditional wooden barrows, and cheese carriers dressed in historic white uniforms racing across the cobblestones.
But how does one tackle this medieval marketplace when traveling in a modern, 7-meter-long home on wheels?
A Slice of History: What is the Alkmaar Cheese Market?
The Alkmaar Cheese Market isn’t just a tourist show; it is a living history lesson that dates back to at least 1593.
At its core is the Cheese Carriers’ Guild (Kaasdragersgilde), which is divided into four distinct groups called “veems.” You can tell them apart by the colours of their straw hats—red, blue, green, or yellow.
The entire ritual follows a strict protocol:
- The Inspection: Buyers and traders inspect the cheeses, knocking on them and using a special hollow drill to test the texture and taste.
- The Clapping: Price negotiation is sealed with a rhythmic hand-clapping sequence called handjeklap.
- The Weighing: Once sold, the cheese carriers load the wheels onto wooden barrows (which can weigh up to 160 kg!) and trot them off to the historic Weigh House (De Waag) to be weighed.
Navigating Alkmaar in a Motorhome
The old centre of Alkmaar is a maze of narrow streets, tight corners, and low-clearance bridges—not somewhere you want to find yourself reversing a motorhome on a busy Friday morning!
Fortunately, the town is incredibly motorhome-friendly if you plan ahead.
Your absolute best bet is to camp just on the outskirts and use the city’s world-class cycling infrastructure or local buses to roll into town.
| Site | Location | Highlights | Getting to the Market |
| Camping Alkmaar (Camperplaats Alkmaar) | 2 km from center (North-West) | Dedicated motorhome area, spotless modern facilities, friendly family run. | 10-minute flat bike ride or a direct bus (stops right outside, runs 8x/hour). |
| Parcade Pettemerstraat | Overstad (North of center) | Basic parking with large designated bays, no overnighting allowed. | 10-minute walk to Waagplein. Best for a day-only visit. |
| P+R Oudorp or Bergermeer | City Outskirts | Free or cheap daytime parking ring. | Hop on a quick local transit bus directly to the center. |
What to Do in Alkmaar (Beyond the Cheese!)
While the cheese market is the headliner, Alkmaar is a delightful destination that deserves a full day or weekend of exploration.
Alkmaar’s historic core is filled with beautiful 17th-century buildings, boutique shops, and charming canals. Grab a coffee, stroll down the Hekelstraat, and enjoy the lack of vehicle traffic.
1. Wander the d’Oude Stad (Old Town)
Alkmaar’s historic core is filled with beautiful 17th-century buildings, boutique shops, and charming canals. Grab a coffee, stroll down the Hekelstraat, and enjoy the lack of vehicle traffic.
2. Take a Canal Cruise
See the town from a different perspective. Because many of Alkmaar’s bridges are incredibly low, the canal tour boats are completely flat-bottomed. Be prepared to duck your head when the captain gives the signal!
3. Visit the National Beer Museum (De Boom)
Housed in a historic 17th-century brewery, this museum takes you through the history of brewing. Once you’re done learning, you can enjoy a cold Dutch craft beer on their floating canal-side terrace.
4. Snack on Bitterballen
After a long day of walking, do as the locals do: find a cozy pub along the canal, order a portion of bitterballen (deep-fried, crispy gravy croquettes), and dip them in mustard while watching the boats go by.
Quick Logistics for the Friday Market
- Timing: The market starts at 10:00 AM sharp. If you want a good viewing spot near the wooden barriers, aim to arrive by 9:30 AM.
- When to go: The market runs every Friday morning from April to September.
- Bicycles: If you are staying at the campsite, make sure to rent a Dutch bicycle. The cycle lanes leading into Alkmaar are wide, flat, and completely separated from car traffic.
Alkmaar perfectly blends rich Dutch history, incredibly friendly locals, and a seamless setup for motorhomes. Hook up your camper, pack your appetite, and get ready for a truly gouda time!
For more information about the Alkmaar cheese market click here
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